4 minute read
Chuseok is the holiday that makes Seoul feel like a different city.
Not quieter in a relaxing way. Quieter in a "where did everyone go" way. Walk through Gangnam on Chuseok morning and you find restaurants closed, streets empty, a stillness that is unusual for a city of ten million people. Most of them have left. They went home to their families, wherever that is, and they will be back in three days.
This is the version of Chuseok that doesn't make it into the tourist guides, which mostly focus on rice cakes and ancestral ceremonies. Those things are real. But there is more to say about what the holiday actually looks like when you live here.
2026 dates: Chuseok falls on September 25th, with the public holiday period running September 24th - 26th. Chuseok only gets a substitute holiday if 1 of the 3 days falls on a Sunday, so this year there is no substitute holiday. The long weekend will be from September 24th - 27th.
Chuseok (추석) is Korea's harvest festival, one of two major national holidays alongside Seollal (Lunar New Year). It falls on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month every year, which means the date shifts in the Western calendar.
The core of the holiday is the charye ceremony: an ancestral rite performed at home where families lay out food offerings for deceased relatives. The specific dishes and arrangement follow traditions that vary by family and region, passed down across generations. After the ceremony, the family eats together.
The iconic food is songpyeon (송편): small rice cakes stuffed with sesame, red bean, chestnut, or honey, steamed over pine needles and shaped like half-moons.
The broad concept maps onto Thanksgiving in structure: travel home, gather with family, eat a lot, perform some rituals, come back.
Chuseok has been celebrated for over 2,000 years. It began with ancient rituals and harvest festivals. During the Joseon Dynasty, Chuseok transformed from a harvest festival into a more formal holiday. The Confucian values of the time emphasized family gatherings and honoring ancestors. This led to Chuseok being officially recognized as a public holiday.
In the 20th century, after the Korean War, Chuseok adapted as Korea modernized. Chuseok foods were commercialized and adjustments were made to fit modern life.
Before Chuseok, an estimated 30-plus million trips are made across Korea in the space of a few days. Every highway in the country turns into a parking lot. KTX trains from Seoul to Busan sell out weeks in advance. Express buses fill similarly. The Gyeongbu Expressway during Chuseok is a recurring national news story.
If you need to travel for Chuseok, book early. Not a few days early. Months early.
If you don't need to travel, avoid being on the roads the day before the holiday starts and the day it ends. Those are the worst windows. Mid-holiday, when most people have already arrived wherever they are going, is fine.
Closed: Most independent restaurants, many cafes, smaller shops and services. Department stores close on the main holiday day. A lot of the places you normally rely on will not be open.
Open: Major tourist attractions (and noticeably less crowded than usual), convenience stores, pharmacies, and emergency services. Gyeongbokgung, the National Museum, and Han River parks are all open and worth visiting precisely because the usual crowds have dispersed.
Variable: Shopping centres and malls tend to close on Chuseok day itself and reopen around it, often with pre-holiday sales in the days before.
The practical advice: stock up on food the day before. Not because you will be stranded, but because your usual options will be reduced and it is easier than hunting for something open on Chuseok morning.
Chuseok is a major gift-giving period. Koreans give to family members, colleagues, and business contacts. Department stores stock elaborate gift boxes for weeks beforehand.
The premium options are Shine Muscat grapes, Korean pears, and hanwoo (Korean beef). Health supplements are common. And then there is spam.
Spam gift sets are a genuinely prestigious Chuseok gift in Korea. Stacked in decorative boxes, sometimes wrapped in ribbon, sold at department stores alongside the fruit and beef. This surprises almost every foreigner who encounters it for the first time. It is not ironic. Spam arrived in Korea during the Korean War, became embedded in Korean cooking, and somewhere along the way became a symbol of practical care. A spam gift set says: I thought about you, here is something useful.
If you work at a Korean company, you will likely receive a Chuseok gift from your employer. It is customary to give something small in return to colleagues and people you work closely with.
Korean courts see a significant spike in divorce filings in the weeks after Chuseok. This is not a secret in Korea; lawyers discuss it openly. Chuseok is the holiday that holds the most pressure for Korean marriages, particularly for women.
The structure of a traditional Chuseok gathering places a significant burden on the wife's side of the family. The charye ceremony requires extensive food preparation. Daughters-in-law are expected to cook, serve, and clean while their husbands participate in the ceremony and then sit. The hierarchy is clear and the work is unequal.
The holiday itself is rarely the trigger. The problems usually predate it. What Chuseok provides is a venue: extended family in one place, parents and siblings with opinions, time for a long conversation that reaches a conclusion. Divorce lawyers in Korea run packed schedules in the weeks after Chuseok.
The specific complaint that comes up repeatedly in those consultations is not a spouse actively siding against their partner. It is a spouse sitting there and saying nothing. A husband who watches his mother berate his wife for hours and does not intervene; a wife who lets her father insult her husband and stays quiet. Lawyers describe the silence as more damaging than active siding. The injury is the failure to step in. The marriage was supposed to be the unit. During Chuseok, it visibly is not.
This is changing. More and more families move away from the traditional structure entirely. But the shift is uneven, and the holiday still carries enough pressure that family courts have a predictable calendar.
This is not in the tourism materials. But if you have Korean friends who seem relieved when Chuseok is over, this is part of why.
The signature food is songpyeon (송편): small half-moon shaped rice cakes stuffed with sesame, red bean, chestnut, or honey and steamed over pine needles. The charye ceremony involves a full table of food that varies by family and region.
Chuseok places significant demands on Korean families, particularly on daughters-in-law who are traditionally expected to handle most of the food preparation and serving. The holiday compresses old hierarchies into three days, and the accumulated stress shows up in divorce filing numbers in the weeks that follow.
Premium fruit (Shine Muscat grapes, Korean pears), Korean beef (hanwoo), health supplements, and spam gift sets. The spam is not a joke. It is a legitimate and common gift, sold in decorative boxes at department stores. If you work at a Korean company, expect to receive something and give something small in return.
Lived in South Korea since 2020. On a F6 residency visa.
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