4 minute read
May is the month where Korea gets everything right. The busy cherry blossom period is finished and summer heat has not arrived yet. The mountains are fully green. The lantern festivals light up the country. And yet somehow, May still gets treated as an afterthought between the blossom crowd and the summer crowd.
Yes, straightforwardly. The weather is close to ideal, the main festivals are genuinely worth attending rather than just Instagram-able, and the crowds are at a manageable level compared to April. The main thing to know going in: there are public holidays in May, and on those specific days, popular spots fill up fast. Plan around them and you're fine.
May in Korea is warm, dry, and mostly cooperative. Earlier in the month it can feel cool in the evenings, so a light jacket is useful for the first two weeks. By the end of May, you won't need it.
Rainfall is light compared to what's coming in June. You'll get occasional showers, not sustained rain. A compact umbrella is worth having, but you're not going to spend your trip sheltering in cafes waiting for it to stop.
What to wear: Light layers. T-shirts and light trousers during the day. A cardigan or thin jacket for evenings, especially early in the month. Comfortable walking shoes are more important than anything else. You're going to be outside a lot. If you're hiking, bring proper shoes; Korean trails are rocky and the descent will punish you in sneakers.
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Started approximately 1,200 years ago during the Silla dynasty and continued through the Goryeo Yeon Deung Hoe and Joseon lantern festival, the Yeon Deung Hoe Festival is a traditional festival registered as an Intangible Cultural Heritage and UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
After returning from his studies in the Tang dynasty, Silla scholar Choi Chi-won was captivated by a clown troupe performance in Gyeongju’s Gyochon Village and later recorded it in his poetry, “Hyangak Japyeong.” Inspired by this, the Gyochon Cultural Performance “Silla Ogi” reimagines five traditional plays: Geumhwan, Daemyeon, Sanye, Woljeon, and Sokdok.
At Samgwangsa Temple, thousands of lotus lanterns glow through the night in celebration of Buddha’s Birthday, illuminating the slopes of Baegyangsan Mountain.
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May is one of the better months to be in Seoul. The city's parks and palaces are at their greenest, the Lotus Lantern decorations change the atmosphere around the Jongno district in a way that is hard to describe until you've seen it, and the evenings are mild enough to walk for hours without thinking about it. Bukhansan is in excellent condition for hiking and the views over the city are clear before summer haze sets in.
The south of Korea in May is what the travel brochures are trying to describe when they fail. Jirisan National Park has multiple trails that are legitimately spectacular in late May when the high-altitude vegetation is fully out. Namhae Island is another option if you want coastal scenery without Busan's crowds. This is peak season for this region and it earns it.
Gyeongju is good year-round but May hits a specific balance: the royal tombs and temple ruins are surrounded by green, the light is good for photography, and the accommodation is easier to book than during Chuseok or cherry blossom season. If you've not been, this is a reasonable month for a first visit.
May brings three seasonal ingredients: Freshwater eel, Sea squirt, and Korean melon. They are what people eat before summer arrives, partly because Koreans believe certain foods build stamina.
Freshwater eel (장어) grilled over charcoal is one of the cleaner expressions of Korean food. 장어구이 (jangeo-gui) comes to the table in pieces, with garlic and green onion, and you eat it with rice or wrap it in perilla leaves. The skin is charred and crispy; the flesh is fatty and rich. The traditional pairing is eel with 복분자 (bokbunja, Korean blackberry wine or juice), which is sweet and slightly tannic and cuts through the richness in exactly the way you want it to.
Sea squirt (멍게) is one of those ingredients that either converts you or doesn't. It looks alarming and tastes intensely of the sea. In Busan and along the south coast, you can order fresh sea squirt on its own at sashimi restaurants. For me it tasted even worse than it looks.
Korean melon (참외) is yellow, crisp, and sweet in a way that regular melons often aren't. It arrives in markets and fruit stalls from May through early summer. Eat it cold and fresh. It needs nothing added.
If you're heading towards Gwangyang in South Jeolla Province in May, the Gwangyang Plum Festival coincides with the largest plum orchards in Korea coming into harvest. Plum-syrup (매실청) is everywhere in May: stirred into cold water, used as a cooking ingredient, or taken as a digestive. It tastes good and the Koreans have been making it for a long time.
Booking ahead: For the public holiday weekends, book accommodation and KTX tickets at least three to four weeks in advance. The rest of the month, two weeks is fine for most things.
Crowds: Expect significant crowds at popular attractions on Children's Day and Buddha's Birthday itself. Palaces, parks, Lotteworld, Han River: all busy. Go early or pick a quieter day.
Cost: May is not the cheapest month, but it's not peak pricing either. Accommodation in Seoul is moderately priced compared to the cherry blossom window in April. Prices rise slightly around the holiday weekends.
One thing people don't mention: Japanese tourists visiting Korea for Golden Week (April 29 to May 5) do sometimes add to crowds. Nothing dramatic, but worth knowing if you're trying to book a specific hotel around that time.
Yes, it's one of the better months to visit. The weather is warm without being hot or humid, the cherry blossom crowds have gone, and the Lotus Lantern Festival is one of the more distinctive events on the Korean calendar.
Mild and mostly dry. Nights are cool in the first half of the month, so bring a light jacket. Rainfall is relatively light compared to June and July, though you'll get occasional showers.
Lived in South Korea since 2020. On a F6 residency visa.
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